Installing Stealth Plate Curtains is a straightforward DIY job. No special tools, no wiring expertise, no lift required. This guide walks you through the full process — front mount, rear mount, single kit, and double kit.
What's in the Box
Before you start, lay everything out and make sure you have all components. A standard Stealth Plate Curtains kit includes:
- Stealth Plate Curtain frame(s) — with integrated motorized curtain sheet
- Control box (computer unit) with Port A and Port B
- Wiring harness(es)
- 12V power cable with accessory plug
- Wireless remote control
- Mounting hardware
If you purchased a double kit, you'll have two frames and two wiring harnesses — one for front and one for rear.
Tools You'll Need
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Socket wrench (if your plate uses bolts)
- Zip ties (for cable management)
- Trim removal tool (optional, for cleaner cable routing)
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1 — Remove Your Existing Plates
Unscrew your license plates from the bumper. Keep the screws — you may reuse them depending on your car's bracket style.
Step 2 — Mount the Plate Inside the Frame
Carefully unscrew and open the Stealth Plate Curtain frame. Place your license plate inside, ensuring it sits flat and centered. Close and secure the frame.
Step 3 — Attach the Frame to Your Car
Mount the frame where your original plate was. Use the existing screw holes in your bumper. The frame is designed to sit flush against most standard plate mounting areas.
Step 4 — Connect and Route the Wiring
Connect the wiring harness to the Stealth Plate frame. Now route the wire from the plate area into the vehicle's interior.
Rear mount tip: Most vehicles have a small hole behind the rear plate area that leads into the trunk. Look for existing grommets or gaps along trim panels. If none exist, you may need to drill a small hole — protect the wire with a rubber grommet.
Front mount tip: Route the wire through the grille, behind the bumper cover, or through factory grommets into the engine bay. Keep wiring away from hot surfaces (radiator, exhaust) and moving parts (fans, belts). Secure everything with zip ties.
Step 5 — Connect to the Control Box
Plug the wiring harness into the control box. For a single kit, use either Port A or Port B. For a double kit, connect the front frame to one port and the rear frame to the other (for example, front to Port A, rear to Port B).
Step 6 — Power Up
Route the power cable from the control box to a 12V accessory socket or cigarette lighter outlet. Plug it in.
Step 7 — Test
Press the button on the wireless remote. The curtain should slide smoothly over the plate and back. If you're running a double kit, test both front and rear independently.
Pro Tips for a Clean Install
- Cable management matters. Use zip ties every 6-8 inches along your wire route. Tuck cables behind trim panels where possible. A sloppy wire run is the easiest way to make a professional product look amateur.
- Test before you tidy up. Confirm the curtain operates smoothly before zip-tying everything in place. It's much easier to adjust connections when wires are still loose.
- Consider hardwiring. The 12V accessory plug works great, but if you want a truly invisible install with no visible cable in the cabin, hardwire the power cable to your battery or a switched circuit. This also frees up your accessory outlet.
- Hide the control box. Under the dashboard, in the center console, or in the trunk are all popular spots. Pick somewhere dry and accessible in case you need to troubleshoot later.
Available Sizes
| Style | Fits Plate Size | Max Plate Size | Frame Size |
|---|---|---|---|
| USA Style | 12" × 6" | 12.2" × 6.2" | 12.6" × 6.6" |
| EU Style | 20.5" × 4.7" | 20.9" × 4.9" | 21.2" × 5.5" |
| Australia / South America | 14.6" × 5.3" | 16.2" × 5.5" | 16.3" × 5.7" |
| Saudi Arabia | 12.4" × 6" | 12.4" × 6" | 13.7" × 7.4" |
Need help with your install? Contact us at support@510autogroup.com or check out our video installation guides on our product pages.
